Probably the easiest task of any patch-paneling job is the cutting--but it's also the easiest to get carried away with! Know exactly where you need to make your cuts before you even pull out the Sawzall or
cutoff wheel. If your rusted areas penetrate farther than the patches, you'll need to rethink your game plan and come up with filler pieces. In most cases, a brace should be run between the rear quarters to avoid any caving in. (Notice the spare tire well has been cut--a Mustang fuel tank will occupy a majority of the trunk floor space.)
Metal Rehab Darning a shoebox Ford with EMS patch panels
You may recall some time back, we did a little "fender-mending" with Cole Foster using EMS products. That actual procedure was pretty advanced as far as skill level is concerned, as the fender patch was butt-welded with a TIG, hammered and shrunk, and then leaded. It's a safe bet that not everyone is up for that type of job, but we know there are plenty cars out there in need of some metal rehab and are offering you a more reader-friendly version.
Certain types of cars are known for certain types of decay due to their design. For example, many early '60s GM cars that saw lengthy stays outdoors will most likely be in need of rear windowsill repair. Similarly, '49-51 Fords are prone to rocker and rear trunk pan rust. Fortunately, EMS has the cure for that and much more, including floorpans, lower-rear quarter replacements, etc. In this situation, we had a '49 sedan that would have made Fred Flintstone proud--practically no floors (front or rear) and had faint resemblances to former rocker panels. What's even more fortunate, though, is that these areas don't need a lot of massaging to make perfect; the rockers and lower trunk sill fit right into place with the welds. For the most part, they are all hidden, and the rear trunk floor can easily be overlapped onto what remains of existing "good" metal in that area. A decent-powered MIG welder, a torch, a variety of vise-clamps, a cutoff wheel, and some type of grinder (either pneumatic or electric) are all it takes to get these panels where they belong in no time. Don't believe us? Have a look for yourselves, and witness John DeJeer's metal rehabilitation.
Normally, the inner brace is still in good shape. Using that as a centering aid, locate both the EMS rear panel and trunk floor patch. (The trunk portion fits up inside the top lip of the rear panel.) Locating the two together insures a more uniform fit altogether.
Don't get carried away and start welding before you verify adequate decklid fitment with the rear panel!
Once satisfied with the fit, clamp the trunk pan to the existing trunk floor and let the metal unity begin. Here, we left the rear panel hanging atop the trunk patch so that we could fine-tune its fitment later.
As for the factory beads in the trunk floor, you have a couple options: you can roll them into the EMS trunk pan before fitting, or do like we did, and throw on a little heat and a hammer to run the beads into the leading edge of the pan. After that, simply continue on with the welding.
The rear panel itself gets welded to the remaining trunk sill tab and spot-welded along the inner seam that joins with the trunk pan--and if you're going for a smooth exterior look, the vertical seam, as well.
Whether you butt-welded,
overlapped, or flanged the inner panel, you'll need to clean/cut your welds down with a grinder--but go easy and avoid removing too much weld.
In the corners, heavy-duty sealer was applied to the seams, and then...
...then the rehabbed trunk area was sprayed with a thick undercoating.
While EMS offers a rolled pan for the rear, we opted to retain the stock Ford bumper filler pan, as a shoebox bumper will be used.
Now it's time to rock...well, at least focus on the rockers.
The poor, rusty remnants of rocker panels on the shoebox didn't require much cutting to free from the body--actually, you probably could have kicked them off!
The EMS replacement rocker panel is unbeatable as far as quality and fitment are concerned. The first thing John commented on when he held the panel up to the car was how well it fit into place.
Once perfect placement was achieved, the panel was clamped on at intervals along the inner flange.
The rocker was welded on each end first with solid beads along the vertical seams...
...(John also welded the rear exterior seam, as well).
Then, the doorsill flange was
welded through the original pinch seams. The condition of your car's floorpan metal will
determine how much you weld this particular area.
Without exaggeration, the rocker rehab itself took less than an hour (although John still has to weld up the rear seam,
but that's an option).
And, you can see for yourselves how well the panel fits!
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