Cadillac's attempt with air suspension proved to be an odd moment in automotive history. General Motors engineers knew that airsprings had some definite advantages over wound steel, but early attempts to use them failed universally because the springs could not be made reliable--they were too light and too fragile. Height controls were capricious and unreliable. Mostly, many consumers were frustrated at having to deal with failed bags that oftentimes left them with an ill-squatting vehicle, if not stranded on the side of the road! It happened too often, and people just stopped buying into the idea.
Well, times have changed; largely in part because of the modern reinforced and reliable Firestone airspring. At first, the springs had nothing to do with automotive suspension, as they were developed to cushion large freight loads (as well as air seats, busses, and a bewildering array of commercial applications). Over time, these airsprings became not only a mainstay, but also a recognized quantum leap above conventional steel springs. Last of all to come to the table were automobiles and light trucks.
Which brings us to today. Now, not only is the aftermarket finding more and more ways to embrace air suspension's improvements to ride quality and handling, but also the OEMs are introducing more and more new vehicles with airsprings.
But, you may ask, "Is it possible to improve upon the best?" Absolutely! Take a nice '61 Cadillac Coupe de Ville, work a little design magic in the Air Ride Technologies' prototype shop, and install their complete CoolRide air suspension conversion. The result: a car with attributes you never thought possible. If anything, the ride is better...and smoother! This is typical of air ride because springs can absorb vibration and harsh impact in ways that steel just can't. However, unless you are used to the Cadillac's characteristic ride, you may not realize the full extent of the improvement.
What is more remarkable and readily noticeable to almost everyone is the improvement in handling. You see, instead of having to sacrifice handling to ride quality by using very soft springs, air systems have the luxury of achieving a similar ride quality to that of the very soft springs with the control of a much stiffer spring in the same unit. That way, you can cut down on body roll and wallowing without transferring a harsh ride to the passengers. Of course, you won't ever confuse a big old Caddy for a sports car, but you will see a distinct improvement in how responsive and nimble it can be.
|
 This is what the Cad rear...  This is what the Cad rear suspension looks like. The spring rests on a lower trailing arm on the bottom and against a tower up top. The spring has to come out. |
 Loosen the nut holding the...  Loosen the nut holding the upper trailing arm to the axle housing. Give the tab on the housing a good solid rap and the joint should break loose. Support the rear axle before you remove the nut. |
 Again, with the axle supported,...  Again, with the axle supported, remove the shock and slowly drop the axle until the spring is loose. The stamped inverted cup was needed to retain the steel coil but is in the way now; it, too, must be removed. |
 The cup is welded to the trailing...  The cup is welded to the trailing arm, so the trick is to use a cut-off wheel to slice through the welds. Grind the remaining welds smooth once you've knocked the cup off. You need this flat surface on the top of the trailing arm for the new air spring to rest; make sure no weld is sticking up. |
 These are the components for...  These are the components for one side of the rear. As you can see, it is a very simple setup to use--but it took a bit of engineering to make it this simple. Bolt the air spring to the upper adapter and insert the air fitting. Now's the time to make sure this is all snug and air-tight. The threaded rod is used to retain the top. Screw the rod into the air spring assembly and make sure it is fully seated. |
 The center hole in the original...  The center hole in the original tower must be enlarged to 7/16. Run the airline through the original hole in the tower as shown and use the protective sleeve to prevent rub-through. |
 After inserting the airline...  After inserting the airline into the fitting, lift the air spring assembly up and guide it into the hole on top. Thread the nut down onto the flat washer but don't tighten it completely until you verify the rotation of the adapter. |
 As you can see, the adapter...  As you can see, the adapter angles to the rear. This positions the air spring directly over the lower arm mount for improved clearance. |
 The lower mount plate goes...  The lower mount plate goes between the airspring and trailing arm to spread the load evenly. You'll use the original hole in the trailing arm to locate the bottom of the airspring. Now you can tighten both upper and lower mount bolts. |
 The completed (rear) airspring...  The completed (rear) airspring install. Make sure your airlines are tight and won't be rubbed or damaged. To finish the rear, Air Ride Technologies includes a new set of OEM-style shocks designed to complement the system. Bolt 'em in and you're halfway done. |
 The stock front suspension...  The stock front suspension with coil springs and upper and lower A-arms. Start by removing the sway bar end-link. To get the spring out you have to take the strut arm loose at the A-arm, remove the front shock, support the inner area of the A-arm, and remove the bolt holding the A-arm to the frame--as long as it's not under pressure, otherwise you'll have to safely compress the spring to avoid injury. |
 Before you remove the spring,...  Before you remove the spring, break the upper ball joint loose. Loosen the nut, give the spindle at the joint a good rap, and it should break loose. The spring pressure helps break it. After the spring is out, you'll remove the nut completely and lift the arm out of the way. |
 The tower opening must be...  The tower opening must be trimmed to allow clearance for the airsprings. Use a cut-off wheel, saw, or plasma cutter to trim the opening and then grind it smooth and neat. |
 The area around the original...  The area around the original spring retainer in the lower A-arm is too tall to allow clearance for the new ShockWave unit. It must be trimmed down as marked so only about 1/4 inch remains of the lip. Again, grind it all smooth. |
 The ShockWave is used because...  The ShockWave is used because it contains both a spring and 12-way adjustable billet shock in one unit. No separate shocks are needed, hence, no mount juggling is needed. |
 The ShockWave installs up...  The ShockWave installs up top just like the original shock and uses the original hole. A urethane biscuit is used on both sides. |
 Rotate the ShockWave so the...  Rotate the ShockWave so the adjuster knob faces outward--this will keep it safe as well as make it easier to adjust. Drill the original lower shock bolt hole out to 5/8 inch. The larger bolt is used because now both shock and spring work on that pivot point. Now you can re-fasten the upper ball joint and lower A-arm through-bolt, as well as the sway bar and strut arm. |
 The lower mount is also similar...  The lower mount is also similar to the original shock using a through-bolt and spacers. |
 The front and rear of the...  The front and rear of the A-arm is reinforced with these plates for extra strength. Check that everything is tight, the airlines are secure, and air it up. Now you can call this job complete! |
 Along with the benefited ride,...  Along with the benefited ride, the Cadillac has one another significant change--its stance. No matter which way you look at it, this is a win-win situation! |