There's nothing worse than the feeling you get when you go to make a panic stop and your car's brakes fail to react accordingly (okay, there's worse, but stick with me on this one). To compound that even further, think about the feeling (and cringe!) you get after your car has passed the "should'a stopped there" point and become intimately acquainted with the car that was able to safely stop in front of you? And all this because your single-chamber, four-wheel drum brake system wasn't feeling up to bringing your car to a safe halt that day! While there's no question you can rebuild an early drum system to perform adequately in today's driving conditions, there is a solution for practically any '40s to '60s domestic--power disc brakes.

Of the many manufacturers of disc brake upgrade kits, there are a few that stand out among the rest when it comes to hot rod and custom components. Master Power Brakes just happens to be one of those highly-qualified companies, and I'm sure you've seen stories in the past featuring installations we've done on a variety of vehicles. This time around, instead of choosing an average '60s car, we searched for a more mechanically primitive '50s model. Our search didn't last long, as we'd just put a set of Fatman Fabrications dropped uprights on a '53 Ford, which just happened to have completely stock brakes. Along with the definite performance upgrade, it also helped that the Ford had already been rid of front suspension grease and grime the first go-around!

On top of swapping the dilapidated front drums out for GM-style rotors and calipers (ordered with the Ford bolt pattern), Master Power suggested using its new hanging pedal/power booster kit. Being that the '53 came factory-equipped with a firewall-mounted master cylinder, this did not pose any significant fabrication issues; rather, it was a straightforward install. (For vehicles with framerail-mounted masters and pedals, the swap isn't that much more difficult, and the benefits are well worth the effort.) Master Power's swinging pedal is basically a universal mount, which means it can be installed in almost any vehicle. Also, the ability to mount the power booster up on the firewall allows for the use of a larger canister as opposed to if you had to mount it below the floor. (Even with frame-mount units, you still usually end up with considerably more brake than with stock systems.)

Realistically, we completed the job in a weekend's time. While certain applications would have been completely "bolt-on," we opted to integrate the new hanging pedal with the factory bracketry, so a little welding and minor fab work were necessary--that, and the usual brake line bending, which, depending on your particular quirks, can be a plus or negative. If you're ready to "step up" to discs, follow along as Gary Frye brings his '53 Ford up to par.

Although agreeably in working...        read full caption Although agreeably in working order, the Ford's drums were not up to par for hectic SoCal (or anywhere else, for that matter!) driving conditions. Obviously, they had to go.

And this is what we'd be replacing...        read full caption And this is what we'd be replacing them with--Master Power's complete 11-inch disc kit (brackets, wheel bearings, flex lines, and all).

On top of that, we opted for...        read full caption On top of that, we opted for their new hanging pedal/power booster kit as well.

First thing Master Power recommends...        read full caption First thing Master Power recommends you do after opening your new box of goodies is wash the rotors and brackets--first with brake cleaner, then with soapy water--to remove all oil residue. Afterwards, treat all non-breaking surfaces (especially caliper bodies) with some fresh paint to prevent immediate rusting.

Included with the kit is a...        read full caption Included with the kit is a domestic lug pattern template--handy for not only verifying you received the proper rotors, but to reference wheels/axles in the future!

Unless your car was recently...        read full caption Unless your car was recently unearthed from a swamp, removing the original drums should be no problem. Once you've gotten everything off, inspect the spindles for excessive bearing wear, as now would be the perfect time to remedy any flaws...unless, of course, it's Sunday afternoon!

Pay very close attention to...        read full caption Pay very close attention to the order your particular caliper brackets align with your original spindles. In some cases, like with the '53, it's easy to assume the brackets point toward the rear of the vehicle--as you can see here, they do not. Correctly using the provided spacers will allow the brackets to align properly.

If you try and slide the rotor...        read full caption If you try and slide the rotor on next, you will see that the backside comes in contact with the bracket.

You will need to use the machined...        read full caption You will need to use the machined spindle spacer (looks like a bearing race) to bring the rotor out sufficiently. Emory cloth will help a stubborn spacer fit properly onto the spindle shaft.

Use a good-quality, high-temp/disc...        read full caption Use a good-quality, high-temp/disc brake bearing grease to pack the supplied sealed bearings. Don't be shy with the grease--stained clothes are cheaper to replace than rotors and/or spindles!

Unpressurized, the new GM...        read full caption Unpressurized, the new GM calipers will slide onto the rotors with new pads installed very easily (but make sure the pad material is facing the rotor surface, not away!). Secure with supplied Allen bolts; then spin rotors to verify bracket alignment one last time.

Because these particular calipers...        read full caption Because these particular calipers mount in front of the spindles, the flex lines feature banjo fittings rather than the thread-in type. Be sure you get them tight, and route the rubber line back in a manner so that it will not get caught up in anything during normal suspension travel.

Once the flex lines are secured,...        read full caption Once the flex lines are secured, the "rolling" part of your brake job is complete.

Before moving on and forgetting...        read full caption Before moving on and forgetting about the calipers (until bleeding time!), check to see that your particular wheels clear the calipers when bolted on.

We were semi-fortunate that...        read full caption We were semi-fortunate that the '53 came factory-equipped with a firewall-mounted master--that would make the adaptation of the power unit a lot easier. (Don't automatically assume that vehicles equipped with floor-mount kits are hard to convert--they're not.)

Theoretically, we could have...        read full caption Theoretically, we could have used the Ford's existing hanging pedal assembly, although our pedal adjustment would have been greatly reduced.

Obviously, we chose to swap...        read full caption Obviously, we chose to swap out for the Master Power unit, as it did not pose that much R&R.

Along with the apparent physical...        read full caption Along with the apparent physical difference, the dual-chamber power master cylinder will afford great stopping capabilities at a fraction of the effort. Even just the fact that our front and rear brakes are now isolated is an assuring thought!

The swinging pedal bracket...        read full caption The swinging pedal bracket is used as a template to mark the firewall for the master/booster mounting holes.

Be sure you not only have...        read full caption Be sure you not only have the holes centered, but frequently reference your column and bracketry to the dash to retain component alignment.

With holes located and drilled,...        read full caption With holes located and drilled, the master/booster was securely mounted to the firewall in order to make any needed adjustments to the pedal bracket. In retaining the stock geometry, it was necessary to slightly bend the brake pedal in order to clear the steering column (which was done with a torch and vise).

As you can see, we retained...        read full caption As you can see, we retained the old pedal bracket for its dash mounting tab rather than creating a new one from scratch.

The tab was tack-welded on...        read full caption The tab was tack-welded on with the dash bolted back in place so we could assure everything lined up properly before final welding (which was done with the dash off).

Gussets were added for additional...        read full caption Gussets were added for additional strength.

It was almost a shame that...        read full caption It was almost a shame that it looked so similar to the original configuration--but we'll definitely know the difference once the car's on the road.

Finally--and this may be the...        read full caption Finally--and this may be the most dreaded part for some--we wrapped up the power master cylinder installation. The kit includes proportioning valve and residual check valves, but be sure to pay close attention to specific brake line routing diagrams that pertain to your setup. You'll have wanted to have bench-bled the master before installing, and be sure all your fittings are as tight as can be to avoid fluid leaks.

And if you want the "power"...        read full caption And if you want the "power" feature, don't forget the booster vacuum line, which should be plumbed to a constant source such as the intake manifold. Once you get the car on the road, test the brakes in a safe, controlled area (starting with slow-speed stops, gradually working up to higher speeds). If you encounter any problems, don't hesitate to call Master Power's tech line!