In many cases--particularly GM cars from the late-'50s on--shims are used to move the upper control arm in and out for camber. The shims fit between the cross shaft and mounting surface, as indicated by the arrows. Caster is adjusted by using more shims under one stud than the other.

Another common method of caster/camber adjustment is with slotted holes. The proper nuts and serrated shafts must be used (and often any paint removed) to prevent slippage.

For a clean look, some aftermarket manufacturers use threaded ends to adjust caster and camber, although it does require removing the upper bolt to make changes. This example is from Heidt's.

TCI used a rotating eccentric to adjust camber; it slid fore and aft to adjust caster. Adjustments were locked in place with a pair of setscrews.

This easy-to-use alignment fixture is available from Heidt's. It includes two plates and a pair of tape measures. The plates were simply placed against the tires and measurements read off the tape measures.

To use Speedway's toe gauge, marks were made on the backs of the tires, and with the gauge set at zero, the pointers aligned with the marks...

...The car was then rolled forward, the pointers readjusted to fit the marks, and the difference was read off the scale.

Changing toe was accomplished by adjusting the tie rod ends. One end has left-hand threads, the other right-hand. On independent suspensions, adjustments are made by rotating the tie rod connectors. With rack-and-pinion steering, adjustments are made by turning the tie rods in or out of the outer ends (the inner ball and socket ends simply spin). The trick here was to adjust both sides to keep the rack centered.