After sorting through all the boxes of parts (the Compac Gen II comes complete with the evaporator, condenser, drier, compressor, and all miscellaneous brackets and hardware, as in the top right picture), we started by hanging the
condenser.
Unless you opt for a remote-mount-style, you pretty much have one option--in front of the radiator. Just like when installing a new radiator, handle with care to avoid damaging cooling fins (note cardboard).
With the drier, your options of placement are wider; we chose to locate it adjacent to the condenser on the passenger side. If you have the time, patience, and space, mounting as many things "behind the scenes" as you can makes for a really clean install. In our case, we wanted to show all the components for the story.
Hot & Cold Comfortable Temps for Your Custom From Vintage Air
Today, this aged rodder needs real creature comforts--I'm talking real air conditioning and heat. And with all the various options there are out there for old cars like we folk build and drive, it wasn't going to be hard to find a setup best suited for my '53 Bel Air. Actually, it was quite easy because the first place I checked, Vintage Air, had the system I was looking for. Their Compac Gen II was just the ticket. While year model-specific units are great, not everyone has factory appointments inside their car, let alone the factory drivetrain. The Compac is just that, compact, and fits underneath the '53's dash--no problem. The only drawback, though, was having to chop, channel, and section the glovebox (which, at the time, was housing a CD player), but that turned out to be not that big of a deal. The cool part of the install was the option given by Vintage Air to install the rotary knobs in the dash without the supplied control panel (which threw off the old-timey looks of the dash) thanks to a set of pearlescent swirl knobs they provided. You will need to check with them for availability or just make up your own, or even use SO-CAL Speed Shop's cool Deco knobs!
As you will see in the accompanying photos, the install of the Compac Gen II was very straightforward. To make things easier on your end, make sure you're very specific when ordering in regards to engine particulars and components; things like long or short water pump, driver- or passenger-side alternator mount, and so on. Also, make sure your cooling
system is up-to-par. By that we mean at the very least, a sufficient fan with a good radiator, and if at all possible, use a fan shroud! We ended up ordering a 14-inch Spal fan to mount on the front of our new condenser, as the non-shrouded, 16-inch mechanical engine fan would not keep the condenser cool while the A/C was running (there is an overheat shut-off switch for extreme temp conditions). As we already had the system charged with R134 refrigerant, instead of plumbing the fan into a trinary switch in the A/C system, we simply ran it off a dash-mounted toggle.
Even without side glass (yet!), the new Gen II system keeps me toasty on those chilly morning commutes, not to mention keeping the windshield nice and fog-free but cool as can be on the hotter days. With appropriate insulation and a full set of glass, this '53 will be comfortable to drive in all year 'round!
Next, Jason hung the Compac evaporator in place, which required not only the glovebox and door to be removed, but the center speaker grille as well. Vintage Air provides a metal strap to mount the unit. Be sure to get it hung in as solid as possible; you don't want it lying on the floor after hitting a big dip!
With the evaporator in place (even though it will come back out shortly for wiring), the vertical quad bulkhead was marked and fit to the firewall.
This is another area where routing discretely, like behind the inner fender panels or within the factory fresh-air duct, really goes a long way.
From there, we moved on to the mounting of the compressor. Being that the alternator originally hung on the passenger side, we opted for Vintage Air's polished aluminum mounting bracket kit that moves the alternator to the driver side, allowing the
compressor to go where it should and make future hose routing easier. Also, we had to go from a single water-pump pulley and dual-crank pulley to a dual and triple--obviously for the added component, but also to make it so we used three belts instead of one or two.
The bracket kit nicely aligns both the compressor and the alternator without cramping things up too much.
And the rod-end adjusters make fine-tuning (belt tensioning) a breeze.
The one area where you may need to seek outside help is with the hose crimping. Vintage Air will crimp them for you after all of the hose has been cut to length, or you can visit your local hydraulics shop.
The actual tool to perform the crimping is quite pricey, so unless you plan on doing multiple A/C installs in the near future, it may not be a wise investment.
Next, we disassembled our rotary knob
control unit so that each individual switch could be mounted directly into the dash, eliminating the plastic panel altogether. We kept the old housing for a while--just so we'd know what which knob did.
The dash was marked appropriately and drilled (with masking tape used to protect paint, sort of), and the switches were installed from the rear.
The cool knobs are accessory options from Vintage Air (availability varies), but you have a world of options to take advantage of.
With the switch mounting out of the way, the evaporator was dropped back down for final wiring and plumbing. The plumbing is
straightforward--you'll have a No. 6 fluid line going "out" to the drier/condenser, a No. 10 suction hose to the compressor, and 5/8-inch in/out lines for heat.
For the wiring, Vintage Air offers an easy-to-read diagram--follow it! Also, be sure to insert the thermostat capillary tube--un-kinked--into the evaporator coil. Carefully reinstall the evaporator (it doesn't hurt to test for adequate power and hook-up beforehand).
The last part of the wiring we dealt with was the binary safety shut-off switch located on the drier. The safety switch disengages the compressor clutch in case of extreme low or high pressure, which would ultimately result in system failure and damage.
Once we were sure every nut, bolt, screw, clamp, and electrical
fitting was not only tight, but also correct, we had the system charged with 1.8 pounds of 134A refrigerant by Ron Gimenez of Quality Air. We strongly
recommend you use a professional automotive A/C specialist to charge your system, as it needs to be fully evacuated prior to charging to operate properly. Using the aerosol-style cans from the auto parts supply just won't cut it.
The final step for the Gen II install was to hook up the air
distribution lines (they slip right on) and locate and mount the registers below the dash. Vintage Air offers an array of register options, so you can choose whatever suits your interior best.
To close up the gap left behind the glovebox door, we literally cut the glovebox itself into a third. It may not house the CD player like it used to, but the necessary paperwork fits perfectly.
Actually, there was one last thing before we were really "cool"--a supplementary cooling fan to keep the condenser cool when in use. Vintage Air supplied a 14-inch Spal pusher that we (actually, our old friend Jim Rizzo) attached to the left side directly on the condenser.
It
was wired to a toggle rather than an inline
trinary switch (since the system was already charged).
SOURCES
Vintage Air 18865 Goll St., Dept. CRM
San Antonio, TX
78266
(800) TO-COOL-U (862-6658)
www.vintageair.com
Quality Air P.O. Box 1804, Dept. CRM
Huntington Beach, CA
92647
(714) 469-6907
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