 Norm used a 1/4-inch grinding...  Norm used a 1/4-inch grinding wheel on a die grinder to do most of the initial grinding on the welds. This allowed him to grind just the weld (not the surrounding metal) and generated less heat than a conventional grinder. |  To reshape the raised section...  To reshape the raised section where the nameplate was once mounted, Norm first made a horizontal relief cut. |  He began by flattening the...  He began by flattening the section with a spoon dolly. |
 The relief cut was tack welded...  The relief cut was tack welded with a TIG welder once the hood edge was roughed into shape, and Norm continued adjusting contours with a hammer and dolly. |  There was plenty of shrinking...  There was plenty of shrinking and stretching required to fine tune the front of the hood after final welding. Norm used a fine-tip torch to heat and stretch the metal... |  ...a hammer and dolly to work...  ...a hammer and dolly to work it... |
 ...and compressed air to cool...  ...and compressed air to cool and shrink it. |  Finally, a body file was used...  Finally, a body file was used to clean and finish the welds and the metalworked areas. |  Here's a look at the hood...  Here's a look at the hood in bare metal, prior to primer. Note the front brace and latch striker support welded back in place; the rear brace bolted on with the hood hinges... |
 ...Thanks to Norm's metalworking...  ...Thanks to Norm's metalworking skills, very little filler work will be needed before the hood is ready for paint prep, and my Plymouth now has a smooth nose job that lets everyone know it's a mild custom in progress. | | |