One thing left undone until the vent wings were actually fitted with glass was the relocating of the lower adjuster mounts, as they play an important part in the proper travel of the door glass.

Here's a good piece of advice: Always pre-fit things like vent windows, stainless trim, etc., before paint...

...Assuming things will fit once a car is painted will just get you in trouble. Fortunately, Mike was able to get the vents in place without causing any damage.

Mike goes through more cardboard-making templates, but accuracy is the name of the game when it comes to making glass fit right. Too big, and a piece can easily crack from normal body flex; too small, and it may not seal correctly. There isn't much room for error.

Since the rear glass would be stationary, Mike had more freedom with the overall size. It would have been nice to make the glass roll up and down, but the chop pretty much eliminated any space for the glass to go with the wheelwells immediately below.

The door glass took quite a bit more time to pattern. Even though there is a distinct shape for the glass to fit when raised, slight adjustments are required for it to travel up and down smoothly and without interference. Because of this, Mike has to manually raise and lower his template, which tells him where to correct the shape.

With the pattern-making finally out of the way, Mike bends up the felt channeling for the doorframes and tracks. For this application, he used a stainless-trimmed felt front and rear, which was glued in place (hence the tape holding the pieces firmly in place as the adhesive dried).

For the inner/outer single-sided felt, very small interior screws are used instead of the old-fashioned clips.

Cutting safety glass without breaking it requires that one layer of glass be cut first, not the entire thickness. This allows access to the safety film sandwiched between the two layers. First, Mike scores the glass along the tracing of the pattern.

With the glass half cut, so to speak, alcohol is poured onto the piece and lit on fire (Kids: Do not attempt this at home!). After burning for just a bit, the glass is snapped with a special tool as the safety film is cut with a razorblade.

Once cut to shape, each piece of glass is finished on a "watered" vertical belt sander, which ensures the edges are not only smooth, but also consistent. The water keeps the glass cool as it's being sanded.

Don't be alarmed--Mike knows what he's doing! A heavy blow to a brand-new piece of glass may normally be a bad thing, but when seating the sash channel with a rubber mallet, it's procedure.

It was nice to finally see an actual piece of glass in the door--and moving up and down at that. With his suction cups securely attached, Mike made sure the glass traveled without any interference.

A "shelf" consisting of a few L-brackets was created to hold the rear quarter glass in place. As a precautionary measure, Mike added stops to prevent the glass from moving forward or backward for any reason--with the garnish moldings solidly in place, that shouldn't be an issue.

Speaking of which, felt was carefully bent to shape for the rear garnish moldings. Since they sandwich the glass up against the window frame, there couldn't be any exposed metal surface coming in contact with the glass.

The glass was positioned with suction cups before the moldings were screwed into place.

Before calling it a wrap, Mike made any final adjustments to the windows. Without locating the front channel with the original-style tab as shown earlier, there wouldn't be any provision for adjustment. And with that, the job was complete. The first drive in the car with full glass was a real shock, as the usual road noise was almost eliminated altogether. Another great thing--cold air from the A/C stays in the car! Now all that's left is a decent stereo and some period-style upholstery.